The Principle And Design Of Garment Armhole Structure

First,

Source:

The armhole is consistent with the human arm girth. The shape and size of the armhole are inseparable from the human body.

In the study of the structure and shape of the armhole, one is to anatomize the human body and observe the cross section of the human arm, which can directly and in detail understand the internal relations of the glare, deltoid, pectoralis major, supraspinatus, and the fat layer around the armpit.

The two is to use the snake ruler to measure accurately the human arm girth, and to ensure that it does not deform, and to draw it on the paper, so that the contour can be clearly observed.

At the same time, the arm girth size can be accurately measured, and the basic theory of the armhole structure can be established.

It is beneficial to deduce a scientific and reasonable formula in the change of various styles of garments.

Two. Measurement of human arm girth:

The shape of the arm root section is obtained from the standard body measuring the net chest 84cm.

The shape and size of the human arm girth are approximately round. The diameter is about 11.5cm, and the girth is 36cm.

Because the front sleeve mountain is formed by a dazzling bone, and the posterior sleeve mountain is formed by deltoid muscle.

The shape of the front and rear armpit is slightly higher and slightly lower.

Three. According to the formula of human arm girth,

A,

Deep deduction: the shape of the measured arm girth is drawn on the paper to determine the width of the front chest and the back line.

Open the acromion point SP and pull the curve of the front sleeve to a 11 degree angle formed by the front breast width. At this time, the SP point movement is measured as 3cm according to the horizontal line. This point is used as the effective sleeve depth point and the original diameter length.

By adding the data of shoulder skew angle 4.5cm, it can be obtained that the distance from the front NP point to the BL line is 19. 5 + 3 + 4. 5 = 5.

Substitution of 2B / 10 can get 16.8cm plus 2.2cm = 19cm, so BL formula can get 2B / 10 + 2 2 cm, B84cm, BL = 19cm (minimum BL line depth).

If the elastic fabric can be tight and the width of the front chest can be reduced to 2B * / 10, the BL line formula can remain unchanged.

B, chest width, back width formula deduction: known: B / 2 Longmen width = front chest width + back width.

84 / 2 to 11. 5 cm = 30.5, 30.5 / 2 = 15.25 (average distribution).

According to the 1cm, the width of the front chest is 15.25 to 0.5 = 14.75 15cm, and the back 15.25 + 0.5 = 15.75 (16cm) is replaced by the 1.5B / 10 formula, chest 84cm, 1.5B / 10 = 12.6cm.

The difference between 15cm and 2.4cm is 2.5cm, which is 1.5B / 10 + 2. 5 cm.

The width of the back is 1cm wider than that of the front chest, and the formula is 1.5 / 10B + 3.5cm.

Substituting 36cmAH for HB, about 0.85HB.

Net bust 84cm, H B - 4 cm, 0.85HB x 42 = 35.7cm 36cm.

0.88HB can be obtained from underwear class, and 0.85HB can be obtained by basic calculation.

Four, according to different

Clothing determines BL line:

The basic BL line formula is derived. We can simplify the calculation to BL = 2B / 10 + 2 cm.

The change of clothing coefficient and the amount of relaxation can be changed. The armhole of each garment should be increased 1.5 - 3cm, and AH is not less than 5cm.

Because 5cm divided by 2 pi equals 0.8cm can be regarded as another kind of clothing change.

Less than 0.8cm can be considered as a relaxation of the same style.

A. tights, sleeveless, knitted: 2B / 10 = 2 = x, x = 0

B. tight fitting body, Tang suit and cheongsam: 2B / 10 + 2 + X, x = 1 ~ 1.5cm

C. aptamer class, formal dress class: 2B / 10 + 2cm + X, x = 2 ~ 3cm

D. wider pine, shirt, windbreaker, leisure class: 2B / 10 + 2cm + X, x = 3 ~ 5cm

E. loose class: windbreaker, coat, jacket class: 2B / 10 + 2cm + X, x = 6 ~ 8cm: Author: Huafeng Shiqi

Yang Xinhua, board training center