Design Element: Reference For Garment Designer To Make Pleats

The pleats can be divided into four common forms: pressed pleats, pulled pleats, natural pleats and pendulous pleats.

1. Crimping

Folding, also known as ironing fold and folding fold, is to press the fabric into shape by machine in the form of wrinkles or overlaps, or it can be sewn with machine thread. Continuous pleats are mostly used for decoration, either in groups or individually. The visual effect of such pleats is regular and neat, giving a sense of order, especially linear pleats. The pleats are repeated and regular, easy to form a regular and strong feeling. In the way of forming the pleat, one end of the pleat is usually fixed, while the other end moves naturally along a specific direction, showing the contrast style and sense of movement of the dynamic and static, flat and undulating, compact and stretch of the pleat. The common forms of pleating are parallel pleats and row pleats (there are parallel pleats and reverse pleats, which are called knife pleats in some places), opposite pleats (there are live pleats and dead pleats), I-shaped pleats (there are inner pleats and outer pleats), line pressing pleats, cross pleats, etc. Special pleating series include: organ pleat, I-shaped pleat, toothpick pleat, row pleat, wave pleat, bamboo leaf pleat, sun pleat, hand pleat, disordered pleat, millet pleat, etc.

2. Draping

Pulling pleat, also known as broken pleat, is a natural, rich and irregular pleat state formed by the gathering and shrinking or tightening of the fabric in the unit of point or line. It can be divided into unidirectional and multi-directional. The unidirectional pleats are mostly pleated in line, and the surface is parallel or nearly parallel (including pleats). The multi-directional pleats are mostly pleated in the unit of points, with strong directionality, and the pleats are in a radial texture state. From the perspective of technology, the machine thread can be used to sew on the fabric, and then the machine thread can be tightened to form a pleat, or several lines of elastic thread can be sewn, and the pleats can be formed naturally according to the elastic effect. The tuck is suitable for light and thin fabrics. The fullness is controlled in width to produce decorative effects. Usually, it is used in children's clothing, maternity clothing and women's clothing with lively decoration.

3. Natural pleats

Natural pleats, also known as live pleats, are pleated within a specified range, and pleats are stacked in different directions. The fabric presents a heavy, vivid and gorgeous texture. Natural pleats are flexible in form. The fabric is kneaded, superposed or stacked in an orderly or random manner. This effect attached to the human body will create a visual effect in modeling and form smooth undulating arcs in appearance. This kind of pleats is full of changes, natural and free, full of dynamic rhythm. The gathering effect of natural pleats is very obvious, which can produce a sense of concentration, heaviness and expansion to achieve the purpose of emphasizing, highlighting and exaggerating in clothing. Natural pleats can also help to highlight the chest, tighten the waist, expand the hips, and increase the activity of a certain part, such as the crotch pleats of Harun pants. The common parts of natural pleats are like drape collar, wave pleats on women's dresses and evening dresses.

4. Drop pleats

Draping pleats, also known as wave pleats, are pleated between two units (points and lines can be used as pleating units, or between two points, or between two lines, or between a point and a line) to form a curve pleat with density changes, which has a texture state of wave ups and downs, natural sagging, soft and beautiful, light and vigorous (Figure 2-80). Draping pleats formed by fabric drape form natural drape folds downward from the point of force of the human body, which expand locally to form wavy drape pleats, and can produce a rich and soft sense of rhythm and rhythm.

This is also a H-shaped pleat

This is also a H-shaped pleat

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