Mongolian Embroidery And Defenders Of Traditional National Costumes

Mongolian embroidery has a long history in Hejing County, Xinjiang. Photographed by Shi Yujiang

"I think this is not only a skill, but also an attitude towards life," said Saimir, an 83 year old inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage "Mongolian Embroidery Felt Pattern" in Bayingolin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture, Xinjiang.

Walking into the old man's home, the traditional masks with various patterns are dazzling. The reporter noticed that there are more than a dozen kinds of hats alone. Saimir is focusing on "carving" a Mongolian dress. Although he is 80 years old, in the eyes of reporters, the old man is full of energy, neat movements and clear voice, showing confidence.

The 83 year old Saimir is dedicated to "carving" a Mongolian dress. Photographed by Li Huihui

Saimir was born in a Mongolian family in Hejing County. He lost his mother when he was 4 years old. In his 70s, he survived the pain of illness tenaciously and lived a tortuous but optimistic and open-minded life. All his life, he devoted himself to the inheritance and development of Mongolian felt embroidery and clothing embroidery art. He won the gold medal of the first Mongolian clothing performance in eight provinces and regions. Now, he has brought nearly 80 disciples.

Mongolian embroidery has a long history in Hejing County, Xinjiang. The nomadic Turkut people who returned to the east have embroidered their own folk customs and customs and formed unique Mongolian embroidery skills in their long-term life practice.

Samir, who has accompanied Mongolian embroidery for more than 80 years, believes that every piece of embroidery has been deeply engraved in her heart. According to the old man, Mongolian traditional embroidery not only embroiders on soft fabrics, but also uses camel hair, ox tendons, etc. to embroider on hard fabrics such as wool felt and leather boots. The grassland style work embroidered shows the dressing and daily necessities of the nomadic Turkut people.

Samir often embroiders for hours with felt. Photographed by Shi Yujiang

　　 Mongolian Embroidery and Defenders of Traditional National Costumes

Samir's craftsmanship comes from his family. "At first, I learned from my grandmother. After her death, my aunt taught me how to embroider and make clothes."

"I am very interested in both the process of clothing and the embroidery drawings on the felt," said Samir, who won many awards in the embroidery competitions organized by the school during her school years.

Samir, who had been dexterous since childhood, learned to embroider while growing up, often embroidering for hours with felt. After adulthood, he will not only make felt crafts, but also design and sew traditional handicrafts such as Mongolian women's clothing, jewelry, knitting techniques, etc.

The nomadic Turkut people who returned to the east have embroidered their own folk customs and customs and formed unique Mongolian embroidery skills in their long-term life practice. Photographed by Shi Yujiang

"We have many yurts, saddles, blankets, clothes, pillowcases with my works," said Samir.

In the 1960s and 1970s, because of the lack of living materials, the optimistic Samir used craftsmanship to earn a living. "I made traditional clothes for them, and they would give me some daily necessities, so life was not greatly affected."

At that time, she was constantly asked to learn crafts. She teaches free of charge regardless of age, gender and nationality. "As long as you are willing to learn arts, I think it is a good thing."

　　 Bring out nearly 80 apprentices

Saimir started her business after she was half a century old. She opened a sewing department in the Trade City of Hejing County, focusing on traditional Mongolian clothing. When her business started, she had to give up because of a serious illness.

After she survived her illness in the hospital and stayed at home for a little better, Samir, who was then in her 70s, continued to do her favorite craft work.

Saimir hopes that through her efforts, more people can understand Mongolian culture. Photographed by Li Huihui

The warm-hearted Samir is not only skilled, but also patient with his disciples. Her nearly 80 disciples, some of whom have become outstanding, some continue to inherit art. Among them, only the niece who was brought by Samir when she was young was most affected.

The 53 year old talent mainly increases her income by making traditional clothes. Many people in the county look for her to make clothes. "My aunt taught me not only the skills, but also the principles of life." Caicai expressed his gratitude.

Naren Caitsk, one of the most outstanding disciples of Samir, founded the Blue Print Clothing Co., Ltd. in 2015, mainly engaged in modern Mongolian clothing and traditional Tuerhut clothing. At present, the company has more than ten employees, basically apprentices who have been taught by Samir. Naren Caitsk was named as the inheritor of intangible cultural heritage of "national traditional costume production skills" in Hejing County in 2020.

　　 The traditional skills have new vitality

Mongolian costumes in Hejing County, Xinjiang (data picture). Photographed by Shi Yujiang

Saimir old man has three sons and three daughters. Now they all have their own lives. The old man has devoted his time and energy to his beloved career, making clothes, taking apprentices, and connecting apprentices to open the mutual aid mode between apprentices.

Samir said: "I have brought many apprentices. Some of them open their own shops and some work at home. Sometimes they take more jobs and need everyone to work together. I will introduce them to help each other. As long as this skill can earn money, there will be more people willing to learn."

"We and the quiet Mongolian people have deep feelings for traditional costumes. When children can walk, they will make a suit for them. When children go to school to participate in group activities, and adults wear traditional masks when they celebrate the New Year," Saimir told reporters.

Aliteng, the little daughter-in-law who often accompanies the old man, is also Saimir's disciple. At first, Aliteng watched her mother-in-law's hard work and wanted to help her. Before she knew it, she also fell in love with the craft. In 2012, she learned from her mother-in-law, and with her mother-in-law's help, Aliteng soon learned her mother-in-law's craft.

Mongolian costumes (information map). Photographed by Shi Yujiang

When talking about his mother-in-law, Ariten's eyes were full of tenderness: "My mother-in-law is very good tempered and helpful. She feels comfortable with her and can learn a lot."

Today, Aliteng's main economic source is making felt mats and Mongolian costumes. "It takes about three days to make a felt pad, which costs about 800 yuan, and about 450 yuan to make a set of ordinary ethnic costumes. Now one set can be made a day."

Saimir hopes that the skills of making Mongolian traditional costumes and embroidered felt will be passed on in Ariteng's hands. "As long as I can pick up the needle and thread, I will continue to do it until the last moment of my life." Samir, who has always lived a simple life, told reporters that through her efforts, she hoped that more people would understand Mongolian culture.

(Source: China News Network)