How Does "Chinese Style" Influence Western Dress Culture?

The beautiful silk produced in China has been transported to the west through the Silk Road, which has greatly enriched western dress culture. In addition to textile materials, China's flower machine and flower textile technology have a great impact on Europe.

Chinese civilization is one of the earliest birthplaces of world civilization. It is also known as "the four ancient civilizations" in ancient Egypt, ancient Babylon and ancient India. Chinese civilization was formed on the basis of the continuous development of stone industry, bronze civilization and iron civilization for thousands of years. Its brilliant achievements played an important role in the history of mankind. It not only has many inventions, including the "four great inventions" (Compass, papermaking, printing, gunpowder), but also has developed agricultural and handicraft manufacturing industries, such as the extensive process of bronze technology, the exquisite craftsmanship of jade craft, the exquisite workmanship of porcelain and lacquer ware, and so on.

As early as the BC, Chinese and Western countries had been carrying out silk trade and cultural exchanges through the silk road. The beautiful silk produced in China has been transported to the west through the Silk Road, which has greatly enriched western dress culture. In May 1985, the Yves Saint Laurent, the iconic designer of contemporary fashion in France, said in a preface, "we Westerners are much more blessed by China." in addition to the textile materials, China's flower machine and flower textile technology have a great influence on Europe. In May 1985, Unlike China, the ancient Western looms can not use more heald pieces because of the use of vertical machines, nor can they use pedals to control the lifting or interweaving of warp threads.

Not until the six or seven century did the West learn about the construction methods of flower machines and flowers in China, but began to weave complex jacquard fabrics with Chinese horizontal looms. This influence continued until the French jacquard jacquard machine and the leading machine in the world. From the end of the seventeenth Century to the end of eighteenth Century, when the Qing Dynasty became prosperous, China became the paradise of the Europeans. Because of the curiosity, Chinese textiles and handicrafts swept the Europe - the Oriental color, luxurious design and gardening style, and many of the nobles of Palace of Versailles were lost. At that time, Jingdezhen porcelain was cherished by many princely kings in Europe. It was regarded as "the magic glass of the East" and became a luxury for the upper class to display wealth. It included the Chinese banquet, the Chinese shadow play and the Chinese goldfish.

From 1580 to 1590, China's annual shipment of silk goods to India was 3000 yuan, reaching 6000 in 1636, and by eighteenth Century 30s and 40s, Europe's annual imports of silk amounted to more than 75000. Driven by interests, many native European silk also began to draw traditional Chinese patterns such as dragon, Phoenix, flower and bird, and marked "made in China", counterfeiting China's original imports. In order to better imitate, the silk painter of the European silk weaving factory even has a hand map of China. Even Louis Xiv held a grand ball at Palace of Versailles, wearing a Chinese costume and sitting on a eight sedan chair. Western designers searched for inspiration from Oriental flowers, bamboo, peacocks and window lattices, and even created the word "Chinoiserie" to describe the prevailing style of art, the Chinese style.

The European fashion in China reached its peak in the middle of eighteenth Century, and gradually disappeared after nineteenth Century. French painter Boucher wrote the Chinese garden, the Chinese fishing scene, the emperor of China and the China Fair. There are many realistic Chinese characters and blue and white porcelain, flower basket, fan fan, umbrella and other Chinese objects on the screen. The aristocrats scrambled to buy these paintings and couldn't buy them. They sold out the four tapestry tapestry, woven with wool and silk. Since then, many missionaries who have been to China have drawn many pictures about China. The 2016 spring and summer men's wear series of a luxury brand in Italy is inspired by the Chinese residence of cassipna, Palermo, capital of Sicily, Italy. The representative Chinese peacocks, puppets, dragons, horses, pagodas and lanterns in the Qing Dynasty are filled with brand logo printing, which is full of Oriental sentiment from the Western perspective.

In the late 90s of last century, the international top tier Chinese style clothing design exploded people's attention to the ancient oriental civilization. The real reason behind it was the rapid development of China's economy and great market potential.

For westerners, China is a country full of mystery. In 1977, Yves Saint Laurent designed the palace fashion series. San Laurent has not only been to China yet, but has designed a series of Chinese style fashion works according to his own imagination through books and videos. At this time, Chinese style fashion has not yet become popular with fashion. Designers' personal preferences and aesthetic expression in exotic countries are greater than commercial value expectations. In 1997, John Galiano Galliano, who was the chief designer of Dior (Dior), reproduced the Chinese fashion design of the Shanghai women's image in the first autumn and winter series of the year. He used the Chinese fashion design of the Shanghai women's figure, wearing thick fat powder, blush, Liu Hai hair, thin eyebrow, black eyes and wearing cheongsam. The delicate and exquisite embroidery embroidery spread from the chest to the sides of the waist. The back fabric was processed into the carp texture, the shoulders were slender tassel braid, the shoulders were cut asymmetrically, the dense and thin nylon rope was stacked to the neck of the neck, and the back was bare and white with a large area of Galliano. In the same field, there is also a Chinese red cheongsam which is no different from western style dress. As a leader of the international front line, Gary riano has aroused people's concern about the ancient oriental civilization. Of course, the reason behind it is also the rapid development of China's economy and great market potential.

In 2001, French fashion designer Jean Paul Gautiye (Jean PaulGaultier) launched the "knife and horse" series of advanced women's clothing inspired by Peking opera characters. The design of this series has a strong sense of history. The satin dress with beads and beads is just like the exclusive western style lattice outfit. The Dragon robe embroidered windbreaker and the collar collar collar waist clothing have Ci Xi's demeanor. In addition, clothing details such as black haired headwear are made into Princess fans, fringed umbrellas, embroidery frames and other elements with Chinese style. This stage of the Chinese style fashion works, for international brand press conference, publicity and the creation of word of mouth is more significant.

In the early twenty-first Century, the consumption of luxury goods in the Chinese market has shown a strong momentum. More and more international fashion brands have joined the eastern elements, and Chinese fashion has increasingly become the darling of the mainstream fashion industry. In the spring and summer of 2003, under the leadership of Gary riano, Dior successfully became a feast for the eastern culture to salute and deconstruct. The whole series is inspired by the designer's three week trip to China and Japan. The show has finally broken the cultural boundaries, and GANO has transformed traditional costumes such as cheongsam and kimono into huge huge costumes. The models seem to have been submerged in stacked brocade, taffeta and chiffon. In the spring and summer of 2005, Giorgio Armani (Giorgio Armani) introduced all kinds of clothes, such as collar, button, Chinese style, calligraphy and other elements, which made people feel refreshed.

In the 2006 autumn and winter series, in addition to the blue and white porcelain Qipao style dress, Italy designer Robert Caavalli (Roberto Cavalli) used black gold to create an improved Chinese cheongsam. Oscar de la Renta, who inspired most of the young people's inspiration to China, has also made a useful attempt to improve the cheongsam. Oscar Renta. It may be a coincidence that in the light and relaxing series of spring and summer in 2007, a few Satin dresses and lace skirts looked at the past. They had no collar, no buttons or even slits, but they had the charm of the old Shanghai cheongsam.

With the approaching of the Beijing Olympic Games, the "Chinese style" was pushed to a new climax. The retail sales of Chinese consumer goods increased by about 14% per year, reaching 11800 billion US dollars in 2007. In October 2007, the Fendi (Fendi) brand spent $10 million to host the the Great Wall show. Carle Lagerfeld (Karl Lagerfeld) moved the series to the the Great Wall exhibition and added several sets of Chinese style designs after the Fendi meeting in autumn, winter and autumn in Milan. The whole show was opened with a bright red dress, with a black cheongsam and a printed tassel handbag. In particular, the bag is embroidered with melon and mouse patterns, with red silk Tassels and Logo buttons on the sides of the bright gold double F. Because there are many seeds in a mouse, bitter gourd and so on, there are many seeds in the fruit, so people regard mice and bitter gourd as animals and plants with strong breeding ability. In two years (1427), Zhu Zhanji, who looked forward to many years of children, finally won his first son, Zhu Qiyu. To this end, he drew a picture of a melon and a mouse to record the happiness of his son. Lagrange said, "I have tried some tailoring and patterns to achieve a graceful effect that suits Chinese models." The official explanation of Fendi brand is that they choose to show up in the Great Wall of China because they believe that in the next 25 years, this will be the fastest growth point of the world economy, and Fendi hopes to have a place in the Chinese fashion consumer market.

At the time of the new fashion week in New York, Milan and Paris, China Chic became the most popular element. Chinese collar, printing ink, fringes, flowers, birds, fish and worms were everywhere. Italy brand Prada (Prada) has launched the new art style cheongsam evening dress series, translucent raw silk and new art style illustrations, with a heavy fringe on the edge of the skirt, and irregular pierced edges in the chest, highlighting curves and organic forms. In the same year, the 2008 spring summer series of Balenciaga introduced the pagoda shoulder into the design of cheongsam, retaining the high collar and slender waist of the original Chinese cheongsam, adding gorgeous flower patterns, and creating the futuristic style with three-dimensional modeling and hard materials. In 2007, Just Cavalli had a white dress printed on Peking Opera mask in autumn and winter fashion. This design later became a series of products. Givenchy (Givenchy) 2013 autumn and winter women's wear series Paris fashion week released the hair style of Peking Opera copper coin head.

In the autumn and winter of 2008, Nicola Geschel (Nicolas Ghesqui re), in the works of the Paris family, used Jiangnan's misty rain, tea and flute and other ancient Chinese style elements to fashion design. KENZO (Kenzo) 2008 autumn and winter fashion series selected the traditional Chinese plum roses as the theme and spread them on silk satin. The fashion ink and ink elements on the T platform, together with the ink and water landscape of the Olympic Games, become the most beautiful Chinese scene in 2008. The famous luxury brand Cartire (Cartier) has launched the "bless China" Global Limited series. It covers almost all of the products that Cartire most proud of, such as ornaments, necklaces, jewelry watches, lighters, clocks, jewellery pens, cufflinks, and even specially designed dragon shaped porcelain plates and dragon shaped decorative spine for pure Chinese life. Among them, the jewellery list is Kirin modeling; the other is a jewellery with round diamonds, black sapphires and emeralds. In addition, dragon modeling has become the representative form of Cartire's "praises China". Its high profile appears on lighters, Zuo Zhong, porcelain plates, pens and cufflinks. The colors are chosen in Chinese red, decorated with blue and green colors.

When the tradition was fully excavated, the connotation of the Chinese wind began to expand. It is more of a feeling, it seems like nothing, not a specific Chinese style.

The flourishing of the new China wind has spread rapidly in the field of luxury goods, and is even commented by the financial times as "China's wealth revival of Chinese fashion". In the autumn and winter of 2010, Karl Lagerfeld took Chanel (Chanel) as the background of the Oriental Pearl Tower in Shanghai, integrating into the golden thread, the Pearl of the Qing Dynasty, the shoulders of the clouds, the Chinese style bun and other elements. Mark Jakob (Marc Jacobs) created the spring summer series for Louis Weedon (Louis Vuitton) in 2011. It combines traditional Chinese style cardigan with impact color and roller and three-dimensional short sleeves. It is modern and innovative, adding lace folding fan and long Tassel Earrings, with a distinctive Chinese flavor.

When the tradition was fully excavated, the connotation of Chinese style began to expand. The French brand CELINE (Celine) launched a series of illustrations and handbags featuring plum, orchid, bamboo and chrysanthemum. Chanel launched the chain handbag in the spring and summer of 2012; Tsumori Chisato (Tsumori Chisato) made the handbag into the fan shape of ink and wash in the autumn and winter fashion week in Paris; the models of Paris Rosa (Rchas) were holding an old book scroll handbag; in 2014 spring and summer Milan men's wear week Prada took the Chinese traditional big headed shoes as the elements to design.

Italy brand Just Cavalli 2013 autumn and winter series came from a trip by Roberto Cavalli in Bhutan, Robert Caavalli. Tibetan Buddhism is a state religion in Bhutan. In the design of this season, the Thangka and patron saint of Tibetan Buddhism led the whole series. Chinese style Xianglong, tiger, Xiangyun, palaces, jade patterns and so on make the rich oriental style to come out. Printed bell bottoms and hooded hooded coats are the highlights of the competition. Turquoise, orange, red and green are all unique Asian Asian symbols. Italy murals and these elements blend together to form a mixture of Western tailoring and Oriental elements. New York Chinese designer Tan Yanyu (Vivienne Tam), with the theme of Dunhuang murals in 2014 autumn and winter series, continued the Chinese style design of the previous season, and the exquisite printing was fascinating. On the Silk Road, the most famous one is Mogao Grottoes frescoes in Dunhuang. This theme also caters to the news hotspots of building the "Silk Road Economic Belt".

The "Chinese style" in western dress culture has gone through three stages: the first is the pure imitation and restoration stage; the second is the combination stage of tradition and modernity; in form, it is purely traditional, but it is modern in function; and third is the innovation stage of Chinese element scope and content. First, it is modern in terms of formula, with modern material, structure and modern idea, but it also expresses common customs and symbols in China, and then it is China. Such fashion will have strong vitality and continuity and popularity. Chinese style fashion is a kind of feeling. It is not a specific Chinese style. It needs to be established in the world fashion culture system, and it is an internationalized Chinese style rather than a simple Chinese style clothing product. Author: Jia Xizeng