Shanghai Fashion Zhou Lizu Has An International Perspective
< p > < strong > Xu Jia < /strong > < /p >.
"P" Shanghai fashion week has been held for 11 years, like most of the fashion week, two seasons a year, half a year ahead of the next quarter of the trend of the next quarter.
2014 spring and summer Shanghai fashion week came on schedule in October 17th.
As usual, it is difficult for viewers to conclude the new season's fashion trend in the show here. < a target= "_blank" href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/" > designer /a > the spirit of self entertainment is far greater than the release of "products".
But it is biased to kill the fashion week in Shanghai.
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Ye Qizheng, a columnist, compared with the Shanghai Fashion Week held in Beijing by the Chinese Fashion Week held by P, came to the following conclusion: the designer wanted to have a full reputation in China and chose a Chinese fashion week. Foreign brands entered China, and the new brands or designers wanted to make a sharp choice. They chose Shanghai fashion week to play an outpost, effectively dividing the two positions.
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< p > but this path was not set at the very beginning.
Shanghai has been committed to becoming the sixth largest fashion city in the world. The fashion week also marked the fifth stop after Paris, aiming to shoulder the four fashion week.
Therefore, in order to enhance the international character, Shanghai fashion week once dominated the international brand. In 2004, Jean Paul Gautiye's show opened the peak of Shanghai fashion week, but it also drew a conclusion.
After that, few design masters moved to the stage of Shanghai fashion week. Mature brands were more accustomed to holding separate press conferences.
Vivian Westwood, who was invited in 2011, this year's Wang Weiwei (Vera Wang) is the brand's intention to start in China.
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< p > American authoritative fashion media "women's Wear Daily" has reported on the bustle of Shanghai fashion week. Of course, it also adds that Shanghai fashion week is only a "Local Event", and "basing itself on the mainland" may not be a good thing.
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< p > < strong > Shanghai design < /strong > < /p >.
At the beginning of this year, the Shanghai fashion week Association joined the London Fashion Week association to launch the Design by Shanghai designer overseas promotion project, which is intended to promote the development of Shanghai's original strength.
In September, Design by Shanghai took 11 Chinese designers to the London Fashion week. The designers involved, including Jiji, Lu Xiao, Li Xiaoming, Lin Ruoping, Zheng Xiaodan and Zhang Yuhao, were also the five designers of designer buyer shop, including Liu Min, duer, Shangguan Zhe, He Yan and Su Renli.
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< p > many of these independent designers are the first time to go out of the country, but they are regular customers of Shanghai fashion week. You may never have bought their "a target=" _blank "href=" //www.sjfzxm.com/ "clothes" /a ", but through the fashion year anniversary report, they will have the chance to hear their names.
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"P", such as Ji Cheng, has hardly been absent from all the releases of Shanghai fashion week in recent years. It has experienced difficulties starting from independent designers, and now has accumulated small achievements in fixed customer groups, running three entity shops.
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< p > "the future of the brand is personalized and original." Zhang Jie, director of the Huangpu District business commission, pointed out at the conference of fashion week this week that the diversion of the e-commerce and urbanization communities to the crowd has hit the traditional department store industry. The continuous opening of the buying department stores such as Lian KAFO and old Buddha has opened up a new demand for fashion in China.
"This is the potential of Shanghai fashion week, which has always supported the cutting-edge designers." he explained the development of original design in recent years.
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The era of designer brand P seems to be coming.
In the London show, Kyrgyzstan enjoyed special treatment. The JI CHENG 2013 autumn winter release was directed by John Walford, a senior London Fashion Week show leader. The background was received by Estee Lauder China senior creative director Vincent Xu, specially designed for the new T stage makeup, with very high commercial specifications.
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< p > back to Shanghai, Ji Cheng also put his "Peony Pavilion" rockery garden on the new world, too Pinghu's T platform, the green jade, green jade and rouge color embroidered embroidered, and set off a piece of "the world April Fangfei do."
She has always been craftsmen in fabric processing, and is good at rewriting complex traditional handicrafts with different techniques.
This season, the designer used the classic skills of multi-layer York pleat. This is a relatively complex process. Manual and machine matching is needed to fold the fabric and make high temperature finalize. From the design point of view, all aspects are mature.
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< p > local designer Li Hongyan is another old friend of Shanghai fashion week who has been placed on the axis for a long time.
This year's Shanghai fashion week's official performance is also her latest work, the HELEN LEE 2014 spring and summer "90+10" series, which is co founded with Disney. This year is Li Hongyan's namesake brand Helen Lee, founded 10th anniversary, is also Disney 90th anniversary celebration. This crossover requires designers to drive the classic Mitch image into modern fashion style. Li Hongyan combines the tannin element, Disney image printing and street fashion together, and it is also witty.
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< p > but Li Hongyan's commercial potential is not limited to cooperation with commercial brands. Her show has the most topics every year, and the front row buyers are the largest. Just now, Shanghai's flagship store has opened 3 Chinese a target= "_blank" href= "http: //www.sjfzxm.com/" > clothing /a /a designer brand. Helen Lee is one of them. It is also the only signing brand in Shanghai.
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< p > in June this year, Sarah Rosen Rutson Sarah flew to Shanghai to visit Li Hongyan's studio.
Sarah Rosen looked at Li Hongyan's clothes at once, and not only bought several pieces of his own pocket, but also immediately placed an order with him when he discussed the size and structure of the work with the designer.
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The introduction of P should be introduced.
In recent several weeks in Shanghai fashion week, there are many returnees. Following Wang Haizhen in the first half of the year, Qiu Hao made a show in Shanghai during the second quarter of Saint Martin, from originality to design.
Xin Yu, who graduated from the London Fashion Institute, first landed in China with his XinYu Hu, the designer of the same name.
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< p > < strong > introduction of capital < /strong > /p >
< p > Li Hongyan once counted an economic account for the fashion week, from dancing to beauty, to modeling, make-up artists, and then to the costumes and public relations costs. A show shows that 10 million dollars are saved.
For independent design brands that still need support, the cost will undoubtedly increase.
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< p > in Shanghai fashion week, the show's media promotion function far exceeds the actual commercial role, such as the lack of buyers and corresponding trading platform, etc. the benefits brought by the press conference for independent designers have not been invested heavily in the money show, which has always been criticized.
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< p > it has been suggested that industry leaders should take the initiative to provide support, because whether it is the New York fashion week that emphasizes trade, or the London with more strong avant-garde temperament, there is capital intervention to boost the industry.
Especially in London Fashion Week, every season will subsidize new designers. Fashion East is an institution that specializes in young designers. The sponsor is the famous fast fashion brand Topshop in Britain, while John Galliano is the Fashion Fringe award. Last year, Chinese designer Wang Haizhen won the top prize in this award and won the attention of London. The chairman of the contest was Christopher Bailey, chief creative director of Burberry brand.
In the first half of this year, Wang Haizhen returned to fashion show in Shanghai, where Christopher Bailey sat in the top row of guests. Fashion Fringe is the source.
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< p > may be inspired. This year's Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee, the joint Fosun public welfare foundation, hosted the "Fstar public welfare China Fashion Designer Award". The first award-winning designer was Wu Xuewei and Wu Xuekai brothers.
As a reward, "Renaissance commonweal" sponsored the unveiling of Shanghai's fashion week in 2014 spring and summer.
The project is expected to continue. Every year, an excellent fashion designer from abroad or the most influential fashion designer in China will be selected to sponsor their latest fashions.
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< p > in fact, Wu Xuewei and Wu Xuekai are the "seniors" who have been famous for a long time in the circle. They have won almost all the awards in China. They are hardly new.
But with the involvement of capital, the style of the show is naturally different from that of other independent designers. The 3D of the international fashion center, more than 50 professional models, has various performances, and there are signs of high grade atmosphere everywhere, which is a dawn for the latecomers.
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< p > Wu Xuewei and Wu Xuekai's brothers called the "harmony" series, still inspired by the national tradition. There are many "paper-cut children" that have been used for many years, just like the two brothers. Most of them are based on the traditional Chinese Ming and Qing furniture and Chinese paintings, and have elements of skip, but they are generally plain and round.
"This era needs individuality, but the more personality it is, the more it needs integration." Wu Xuekai told reporters in an interview in the background, "hehe" is also the brothers' perception of life at this stage.
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< p > besides the designer brand, strong local commercial brands have begun to mark the platform of fashion week.
Generally speaking, overseas commercial brands want to enter the Chinese market. They will choose Shanghai fashion week as the platform for their debut, try to warm up, and then try to open stores next year, such as AK CLUB in the US.
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< p > this year, Shanghai textile control's high-end brand Prolivon is released under the theme of "below sea level", which aims to spread commercial value through fashion week.
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< p > Prolivon has been selected as one of the most important independent brands in Shanghai in 2012. This year, it has won the 2013 Shanghai design capital annual brand award and has been trying to build China's high-end brand.
This release uses strong monochrome: Peppermint Green, colorful blue, Atoll blue, coral red and so on to match Eugen's yarn to create a surrealistic dream.
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< p > "Shanghai fashion week can still gather popularity and has great benefits for brand marketing". Its PR told reporters that Prolivon originally intended to invite Maggie Q to come to the scene, and the prices were all good, but there was no time to change. "Otherwise, brand positioning is an effective publicity point."
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< p > in addition, as a concrete practice of the commercial landing of creative design, a series of exhibition activities were launched simultaneously during the fashion week of Shanghai, providing the public with the opportunity of close contact and understanding of T's works.
The effect of selling to the public is unknown, but it adds up to a commercial distribution channel.
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